Kansas
Travel Blog
Chronicling
changes to KansasTravel.org and Keith's exploration
& photographing Kansas restaurants, attractions, museums, festivals
and art. Contact him.
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Wednesday
- September 3, 2014: We learned today, that Glenn
Stark, the amazing self taught artist who lived in Kingman, passed
away yesterday. As his dear wife, Mary said, "His 97-year-old body just
wore out." Glenn had been unable to live life as he wished for the past
3 years and his passing is a blessing.
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Friday
- September 5, 2014: At lunch, I made my second visit to the new Rock
and Brews in Overland Park. It was a pleasant day and the big garage style
doors were open to the patio. I was going to order the signature Ring of
Fire chicken wings, but switched to the spicy Asian wings at the urging
of my server, who said they were the most popular. The flavor didn't really
work for me, some spice was off. They weren't terrible, but I wouldn't
choose them again.
My
side dish was garlic French fries. They had a LOT of garlic. I enjoyed
them, but they weren't a good choice for going back to work after the meal.
We
planned to get away a little early on Friday afternoon, but when Linda
picked me up at the dealership at 4:30, the temperature had dropped over
10 degrees and we decided that we might want some warmer clothes for the
weekend, so we drove both vehicles home. That later start combined with
construction, rain and one wrong turn to make it after 8PM by the time
we made it to Coffeyville, Kansas.
At
this point I have visited most of the attractions in Kansas which interest
me, so these trips are becoming more important for the restaurants, both
because they change and because new ones open. Tonight we went to Tavern
on the Plaza. It had been so long since my last time there that the review
was removed a few years back.
Tavern
on the Plaza is in an attractively restored 1872 building which sits across
from the two banks which the Dalton Gang attempted to simultaneously rob
in 1892. That was the end of the gang. Four members of the gang were shot
and killed, including brothers Bob & Grat Dalton.
But
to get back to the food, the Tavern specializes in hand cut steaks, burgers
and smoked meats. They immediately failed one of Linda's tests for a steakhouse,
when we spotted, "Medium well or well done steaks are not recommended or
guaranteed."
We
started with Vidalia onion petals ($4/6 depending on serving size) with
red pepper garlic dipping sauce. They were good with or without the sauce.
The batter was a little sweet and the combination with the sauce was quite
rich.
I
ordered a 12 ounce ribeye ($29). I've learned to order meat medium rare
instead of medium in Kansas and this one followed the pattern, with the
steak coming medium rather than medium rare. It was a very good ribeye
and went well with the gilled onion and mushroom side dishes which I selected.
Linda
had fried catfish ($14) with corn on the cob and tavern fries. She liked
her food, though her favorite part of the meal was the corn.
The
Tavern on the Plaza advertises that the building is haunted, so I asked
our server if she was a skeptic or had experienced anything. She said that
anyone who has worked in the restaurant very long has had experiences.
She said the most common is hearing voices, or hearing your name called
when there is no one there. She said that she was also there when some
wine glasses were swept off the bar.
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Asian wings and garlic fries
Tavern on the Plaza |
Saturday
- September 6, 2014: We had a pleasant night at the Coffeyville Best
Western, sleeping in since the first place we were going to visit was delaying
opening until 11AM because of overnight rain. The Safari Zoological Park
in Caney is a small, family owned zoo and often has irregular hours due
to weather, so I had known to call the day before. Admission is $11 and
rather than having the run of the zoo, is a 1.5 hour tour. Mary was the
guide and she began our tour along with another family, a few minutes after
we arrived. Other parties joined us throughout the tour, and at the conclusion
of the tour, she would turn right around and take the late joiners through
the parts which they had missed.
The
zoo has mainly large cats, canines, bears and many types of primates. It
was a cool morning and the animals were quite active, excited as we approached,
since they knew they would be fed. Visitors can purchase generic animal
crackers to throw into the cages and the guide has a bucket with meat and
more animal crackers. The most dramatic response was from the baboon troop,
who were almost frantic as we approached. They were an interesting group,
with the dominate male at the bars reaching out for food, while the smaller
animals tried to beg without him seeing.
With
the tigers and grizzly bear, our guide stood on a raised platform next
to the cages and held meat at the end of tongs, high over her head so we
could see how large the animals were when they stretched up for the meat.
She also used the food to get the hyenas to make their calls, which set
the nearby coyotes and wolves howling.
The
slow start made it later in the day than I originally planned, so we then
headed straight east with no stops until we arrived in Baxter Springs.
Baxter Springs is on Historic Old Route 66, on the Oklahoma border and
I had several restaurants to check on. The first was Baxter Springs Smokehouse,
which I think is misnamed. Near as I can tell, they do not smoke the meat.
The ribs (while good) tasted like they had been cooked in the oven and
I did not see a smokestack or wood pile. But the food was good, in most
cases tasting much better than it looked. The food looked very plain when
served.
My
favorite item was Linda's sausage. It didn't have the smoky flavor which
Linda wanted, but the Polish style sausage with a liberal coating of the
sweet BBQ sauce tasted pretty good to me.
We
then drove to the downtown to check on some other businesses, first taking
photos and confirming that the former Cafe on the Route is having major
remodeling in preparation for someone reopening it. Then we had our dessert,
a house made cookie dough frozen custard at Angels on the Route, a 7 year
old sandwich and gift shop in a 149 year old building. The custard was
wonderful. We would have tried English toffee flavor as well, but they
had run out and none of the other flavors appealed to me.
We
then followed the entire stretch of Route 66 in Kansas, about 13 miles,
looking for places which had opened, closed or changed. Our principle stop
was at the former 4 Women on the Route in Galena, which has changed owners
and is now Cars on the Route. Melba Rigg (Melba the Mouth), who was one
of the original 4 women, is no longer and owner, but continues to greet
visitors and tell them of the many ways which the building, its mining
boom truck, the town, and she herself are represented in the Cars movies.
We
retraced part of route and then drove up to Pittsburg, to join family for
the Pitt State season opening football game. Pitt is the winningest football
team of all time in Division 2.
Pitt
had an easy start to conference play, defeating Northeastern State (OK)
37 - 0, in front of the fourth largest crowd in stadium history. The game
was followed by a fireworks display.
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Feeding a tiger at the Safari Zoological Park
Baxter Springs Smokehouse
Cafe on the Route
Angels on the Route
Cars on the Route
Fireworks |
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Sunday
- September 7, 2014: On our way back to Lenexa, we stopped for supper
in southern Overland Park at Llywelyn's Pub. It had been several
years since we dined at Llywelyn's. The atmosphere in the 100 year old
former church is pretty cool, but the food doesn't quite make it to the
level I would like.
The
shrimp curry on fries had a lot of peas and carrots, which took away from
the the dish.
The
Fried Irish Pies sounded very appealing - four flaky pastries stuffed with
corned beef, white cheddar and colcannon (mashed potatoes, cabbage and
leeks). Served with Irish whiskey mustard. But the pastry was not flaky,
they had little flavor other than the pastry and the mustard was nothing
like what we recently had and liked in Ireland.
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shrimp curry on fries |
Saturday
- September 13, 2014: Linda and I returned to Stroud's
Restaurant in Fairway to update its listing. Linda had the fired catfish,
for the first time. It was a whole catfish with a cornmeal coating. The
server offered the choice of having it served whole or having the bones
removed in the kitchen.
The
prices were unchanged from 2012.
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Fried catfish |
Sunday
- September 14, 2014: On Sunday afternoon I went to the Commemorative
Air Force air show at New Century Airport. My friends who narrate air shows
didn't do this one, but Hooter (who is one of the announcer partners) was
there as General MacArthur, a role he has done there several times, along
with a local man who portrays Harry Truman. I hadn't seen Hooter for over
a year and enjoyed chatting for about 30 minutes between the conclusion
of the air show and my flight.
Yes,
my flight. It was a 15 minute flight in an open cockpit Fairchild PT-19
which was used for training by the Army Air Forces (AAF) in World War II.
The
plane was a little awkward to get into, but the seat was comfortable once
I was place. the seat belt includes two shoulder straps (I guess they don't
want people falling out). Between those straps and needing to keep me &
the camera behind the narrow windscreen to avoid the 100mph wind, it was
rather awkward using my camera. Highlights of the flight were passing over
the 440 acre BNSF Intermodal Facility, the former 10,000 acre Sunflower
Army Ammunition Plant in DeSoto, and taking off following a B-17 Flying
Fortress.
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CAF Air Show
Keith Stokes in the Fairchild
PT-19 |
Saturday
- September 20, 2014: Linda and Mary joined me in a revisit of the
Kansas
City Renaissance Festival, a theme park sized fair at the west end
of the Kansas City metropolitan area in Bonner Springs. One year at the
festival is much like the previous one, but there are enough changes that
I like to check it out every second or third year.
The
biggest change which we noticed for 2014 is the White Stag Inn, which offers
the first table service in the Renaissance Festival.
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Bob the Juggler |
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