Kansas
Travel Blog
Chronicling
changes to KansasTravel.org and Keith's exploration
& photographing Kansas restaurants, attractions, museums, festivals
and art. Contact him.
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Saturday
- June 1, 2024: We traveled to Topeka for family business, but I took
advantage of the trip to check on some restaurants, starting with the new
restaurant which is coming to De Soto, Kansas. Burnt End BBQ, which has
been at a couple of locations in south Overland Park, is opening a restaurant
just off K-10.
For
lunch, we revisited Herman's Meat & Smokehouse in Topeka. Today's special
was 3 ribs, choice of side and a fountain drink for $8.50. which sounded
like a great deal, so we all went with it. It turned out that there were
actually 4 or 5 ribs, so we each had ribs to take home. They had plenty
of flavor from the smoking and the dry rub. Herman's is also a deli and
I bought Italian sausages to take home.
For
supper we made a second visit to the reopened Speck's Bar & Grill,
also in Topeka, Kansas. It closed last June, but was purchased and reopened
a few months later. It is now open under the same name and several long
time favorite items (such as the 3 pound burger and Bomber Dog) are still
on the menu.
Our
findings during the first visit in December were mixed and I wanted to
give them more time before another try. I believe they are really trying,
but it just isn't the same type of food experience it used to be. At 5:30
PM. they apologized that it would take extra time because the fryer hadn't
been turned on and needed to warm up. That really didn't seem to take that
much extra time.
The
BLT could have used more meat and we moved all the bacon from one side
to the other. The fresh cut fries were limp and underdone. The chicken
gizzards had a thick coating, like fired mushrooms, and I would have liked
less batter. The chef brought out a gizzard sauce. When I asked him what
it was, he described it as cocktail sauce with some heat. All I tasted
was ketchup and black pepper.
The
prices were very reasonable and they didn't charge anything for soft drinks
or iced tea. A light meal for three people was under $30. I really want
to like this place and will probably try them again in a year or two.
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Burnt End BBQ
Speck's Bar & Grill |
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Thursday
- June 6, 2024: I'm off to explore southwest Kansas and I drove straight
through the first 2/3 of the state with only one stop, at the dam by the
Drinkwater
& Schriver Flour Mill in Cedar Point. There is a lot of water in
the Cottonwood River right now.
It
doesn't look like there is any work being done on the mill any longer.
Lunch
was at Holly Kaye's Country Cafe in Mullinville, Kansas. The restaurant
had recently been recommended to me for burgers, but after reading the
online reviews and asking a few questions, I went with the small (5 ounce)
chicken fried steak dinner. The salad which came with it was uninspired,
but was chilled and had a generous amount of dressing.
The
service was casual, but good. I appreciated the server heating the roll
in the microwave. The steak and mashed potatoes were fine, but not really
what I would try again. I was very happy with the Dutch apple pie, sweet
with a good flaky crust. The server asked if I wanted it heated as well
and I did. It did seem a bit pricey at $5.99.
Only
two people were working in the small (only 6 tables) restaurant. The chef
is Holly, the owner. The rest room was clean, but quite small. It might
be an issue with a wheelchair.
The
next stop was at the Gallery at Landmark Center in downtown Liberal, Kansas.
The hallways of the neat old building are lined with historic pictures
from in and around Liberal, with one hall having old Kansas maps. There
is a small "Downtown Museum" in a room off the atrium, with a sign on the
door saying to request the key at the Candi Prater Insurance Agency in
the ground floor west hallway. The agency is open 8:30 - 5:30 Monday through
Friday.
The
museum has only about 5 exhibits, but they are nicely labeled, as were
the photos in the halls. The atrium also has Uncommon LLC, an antique shop
where the merchandise is also well labeled, kind of extending the museum.
I
had an early supper at The Hamburger Place, a food truck on the north side
of Liberal. I tried to dine here in 2019, but although that time I had
confirmed their hours in advance by phone, it was closed. This time the
food truck was open and after reviewing the short menu, I ordered chilly
fries and a cheeseburger, with both of them Maria Style (grilled onion
and jalapenos). The cheeseburger was well cooked and the patty has a nice
flavor. The chili fries were good despite the many beans in the chili.
All were seasoned well and I felt no need to add anything to either one.
I assume that the nice lady who took my order and prepared the food is
Maria.
Driving
north, I stopped at the Grant County
Adobe Museum in Ulysses, Kansas. I last visited the museum in 2007
and was checking to update its review. It is a very attractive museum.
Comparing this years photos to 2007, the exhibits look largely unchanged,
but I think that there are new exhibits related to the oil and gas industry
at the rear. This time I did not see the Native American petroglyphs from
before and I don't know if I just missed them. After I left the museum
and was taking exterior photos, I noticed some buildings a short distance
away that appear associated with the museum. I had forgotten that they
had been locked when I visited the first time and the docent in the museum
had said nothing about them today. The museum was about to close for the
day and the next place I was visiting would close just a half hour later,
so I didn't go back in and ask about them.
In
downtown Ulysses, I visited the Main ARTery, which is an art gallery with
classes and an attached flea market. Most of the artists whose work is
in a variety of mediums are from Ulysses, with a few from neighboring
towns and one from New York City. There must be a story there, that person's
work was all marked half price. Main ARTery has 25 artists in the
gallery and 35 vendors in the store.
After
a brief stop for some photos in Jetmore, I went on to Laikin, Kansas and
checked into the Cobblestone Inn.
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Drinkwater & Schriver Flour Mill
Dutch apple pie
Landmark Center
The Hamburger Place
South half of the gallery |
Friday
- June 7, 2024: My day started a little before nine at the Kearny County
Museum in Lakin, Kansas. It doesn't officially open until 9 AM, but the
lady said she is usually there about 8 and leaves the front door unlocked.
The main museum has two large galleries. The largest gallery has many cubicles
with mini displays of various items from many types of businesses. The
second gallery has two large wagons and farm related displays.
The
curator opened the other adjacent buildings, which included the White House
with turn of the 20th century furnishings, one room Columbia School House
and a relocated Santa Fe Depot. The machinery area of the museum and small
round barn across the street were kept locked up.
Heading
east toward Junction City, I stopped at a historic marker, and found an
attraction named Charlie's Ruts, which is maintained by the Kearny County
Museum. In addition to parallel sets of Santa Fe Trail wagon ruts, there
is a 1987 Kansas Historical Society marker, metal art depicting a wagon
on the trail, and a mail box with guest register. The mail box is treated
much like a geocache and people have left souvenir trinkets which you may
take with you, or you may choose to leave some for other travelers. The
ruts are fenced off, but there is a gate and visitors are encouraged to
explorer the 19th Century wagon ruts.
The
next little community on US-50, was Deerfield, Kansas and I pulled through
town to see what could be found. Fortunately my route brought me past 105
West 6th Street, where there is an attractive little classic Texaco service
station which was built in 1923. There is a small Texaco sign and wooden
boxes painted to look like old gas pumps out in front.
This
turned out to be another site maintained by the Kearny County Historical
Society, which purchased it in 2006. Through the windows I could see photos
and Texaco artifacts, but there was nothing to indicate if and when the
building is open for visits.
My
first stop in Garden City was Valley View Cemetery where the grave marker
for Mitchal Runnels contains the engine from the 1924 Chevrolet he was
driving when he was hit by a train. His father made the original marker
and it badly deteriorated over the years. The marker the engine sits on
had been replaced since the last time I visited Valley View Cemetery.
I
drove toward downtown to photograph the 900 Block North Seventh Street
Historic District, with 5 attractive homes from the early 1900s. Then continued
on to Stevens Park to photograph a cannon carried by the battleship California
during the Civil War and the nearby set up of food trucks and booths for
Food Truck Friday, which is taking place the first Friday of each month.
Driving
east on on US-400, I turned into Ingalls, Kansas to visit the Santa Fe
Trail Museum. Although I had called earlier in the week to confirm hours,
the museum was closed and the sign on the door said they were closed until
1 PM/ Trying to change my schedule on the fly, I checked the website for
the Stauth Memorial Museum 17 miles south in Montezuma, but it was closed
until afternoon as well.
Heading
east again, I stopped a little before Dodge City at the Santa Fe Trail
Tracks (AKA Dodge City Ruts). I first visited this roadside park in 1985.
US-400 is being widened to 4 lanes and the driveway and parking for the
park has been recently redone. Post rocks which once marked a campsite
used by a U. S. Survey team in 1825 are just laying together on the ground.
There
is a nice paved 100 yard trail to the lookout point. While taking photos
I was startled to see a rattlesnake a couple of feet away, but is was only
the body of one whose head and rattles had been cut off.
For
lunch I went to Kate's in Dodge City, Kansas,
which is a bar & grill which opened as the Coney Island in 1946. I
first dined at Kate's in 2019 and last dined here in 2022.
This
time I reordered the chili burger which I had on my first visit and which
has been on our Kansas Best Burger list. The first time I had the burger
it was open faced on white bread. This time it was on a bun. That isn't
a problem, but the patty this time was like hamburger steak. Neither the
texture or flavor I loved before.
My
order of chili fries had nicely cooked fresh cut fries. I enjoyed the chili
despite the beans which I don't believe belong on chili toppings. The chili
has enough flavor that I didn't feel the need to add hot sauce or crushed
red pepper.
When
I requested some onion, the server brought a nice little dish of diced
onion.
Kate's
is still on my unique Kansas restaurant list, but is dropping off the list
of best hamburgers.
After
lunch, it was a short ride to the Boot
Hill Museum, which generously provided my admission so I could update
their listing with the new museum and entrance which opened in 2020. I
like the new museum, particularly the People of the Plains exhibit at the
entrance. I would love to see that exhibit expanded. I also like the Law
& Order exhibit, which shares some stores from Dodge City, asks if
you would have voted that the person guilty or not guilty, and then explains
what the law actually decided.
There
were a lot of children participating in a one day "Cowpoke Camp." I saw
groups of children being led by costumed reinactors in arts and crafts,
roping, can-can lessons, deputizing and roping.
I
followed up on some of the Stan Herd art in Dodge City. The artist is particularly
famous for crop art and grew up just 60 miles away in Protection, Kansas.
I found one of his large paintings in the Dodge City Public Library, titled
Dusk on the Santa Fe Trail and a smaller painting with no title listed.
I also visited three Stan Herd murals nearby. One location has two of his
murals, one showing cattle branding on the range and the other showing
building the railroad. A muffler man which was customized as a caricature
Salsas Man and given to the city by actor Dennis Hopper has been placed
in front of the murals. Just two blocks away is a Stan Herd's three story
high homage to Frederick Remington's "The Old Stage-Coach of the Plains."
A
few miles east of Dodge City, I revisited Fort
Dodge, a fort which was used from 1865-1882 and was repurposed as the
Kansas State Soldiers Home in 1890. The 752 acre campus offers long term
nursing care, domiciliary care and cottages for US service veterans. Most
of the historic campus is open to the public.
Fort
Dodge includes a sutler store, post office, chapel and repurposed barracks
and officer's quarters. The army quartermaster building was built in 1866
and now houses the library and a museum. The museum is only open in the
morning.
Driving
on to Jetmore, Kansas, I was met at the Haun Museum by Alison Guthrie.
The museum is normally closed on week days, but Alison agreed to meet me
there to open the museum and brought along Rick Lucas who told me a lot
about the history of the building and many of the exhibits. Large portions
of the collection will mainly be of interest to folks with a community
connection, but other interesting stories told by the museum include the
death of Morton the elephant. Morton killed his trainer while in Jetmore
in 1911 and was destroyed by using a train engine pulling to break his
neck. A.E. Hunt's Rotary Aeroplane was a failed early helicopter built
in Jetmore in 1910.
The
museum has produced calendars with historic photos of Jetmore and Hodgeman
County, Since they tell a lot of the history of the community, Alison presented
me with a set of them and they will provide for interesting Facebook post
going forward.
I
had supper at Judy's Cafe. I selected it from polling the folks on the
KansasTrave.org
Facebook Page on which restaurant I should visit. Judy's Cafe in Jetmore
or nearby Bruce's Country Kitchen in Hanston. Kansas. 19 people weighed
in and the majority said to go to Judy's.
Judy's
is a small restaurant with 5 booths and a counter with 4 chairs. Two young
women were working, doing all the things in the restaurant. I selected
the Longhorn Burger, which for $10.25 was described as a 1/2 pound burger
loaded with cheese, grilled onions, homemade jalapeno paste and an egg.
The egg didn't really work for me, particularly after I bit into the yoke
which ran out of the sandwich. Still I enjoyed the burger after removing
the egg and it was more than I could eat.
I
also ordered a $4 side of fries and was astounded when it turned out to
be what looked to me as being about 3 pounds of fresh cut fries. The side
dish dwarfed the large sandwich. I heard regular customers who came in
after me request a small or half order of fries. Now I know. When I asked
if many people finish the fries, the server said that was rare that someone
ate the entire order, and that they once had a person who was unfamiliar
with the restaurant ask for two orders of fries.
I
asked about desserts and was told they had in-house made strawberry rhubarb
pie. I shot the works and asked for it warmed and à la Mode. I'm
more of a straight rhubarb person, but this pie was great.
When
I was paying, I was asked where I lived. When they learned that I came
from the far side of Kansas, they requested that I sign their guest register.
I was the first one to sign in June, but there were 14 parties in May with
the most recent ones being from Colorado Springs, Pueblo, Colorado, and
Quincy, Illinois.
It
was a nice experience.
As
I drove north toward Wakeeney, Kansas, dark clouds filled the northern
sky. There was still no rain when I reach Wakeeney, so I took a few minutes
to photograph a new mural which was painted across the street from on the
former Masonic Lodge, across the street from the Trego County Courthouse.
It is quite attractive and spells out the name of the town.
I've
stayed at the Wakeeney Super 8 several times. As I was checking in tonight,
the owner was watching weather radar for Hill City, about 25 miles north
of town and said they were really getting hit by the weather. About 45
minutes later I was in my room and the power went off. I went to
the window to open the curtain and get more light. There was driving rain
and 55 mpg winds which lasted another 20 minutes or so.
Power
came back in a couple of hours.
|
Kearny County Museum
Charlie's Ruts
Texaco Service Station
Mitchal Runnels Grave
Food Truck Friday
Santa Fe Trail Tracks
Chili Burger & Chili Fries
Law & Order Exhibit
Fort Dodge Chapel
Haun Museum
Judy's Cafe
Longhorn Burger
Strawberry Rhubarb Pie
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Saturday
- June 8, 2024: The morning began with a quick stop in Ellis, Kansas
to photograph some murals, than back on I-70, turning off toward the south
side of Hays, Kansas and Fort Hays State Historic
Site. Fort Hays army post in what is now Hays, Kansas was established
in 1865 as a headquarters for troops given the task of protecting military
roads, guarding the mails, and defending construction crews on the Union
Pacific Railway. Fort Hays was abandoned in 1889. Today the Fort Hays State
Historic Site has a visitor's center, four original buildings and photographs
& the foundations of other buildings. It is a free attraction.
Across
town I stopped at the Kansas Merci Boxcar. It is one of 49 boxcars given
to the United States by the grateful citizens of France in 1949. It was
originally displayed in Topeka and then was taken on a 140 day tour of
120 Kansas towns ending on Armistice Day, November 11, 1949.
When
I last photographed the boxcar, it was kept next to the American Legion
Hall Canterbury Drive. It has since been moved about 100 feet to be a centerpiece
of Veterans Memorial Park. The park also has a M-60 A1 Tank, many flag
poles and an obelisk with a similar shape to the Washington Monument. There
are phone numbers to call to schedule a tour of the Merci Boxcar.
I
drove downtown to the Hays Arts Center Gallery. The Gallery was scheduled
to open at 10 AM. It was a couple of minutes before 10, but the door was
unlocked and I started to go in, but I was quickly told that the museum
was not open and the door was only unlocked for a delivery.
The
next stop was at the nearby Stone Gallery
(art studio of Pete Felten). The gallery does not keep regular hours, but
a call earlier in the week had confirmed that Pete might be at the gallery
working this morning. It was all locked up. Fortunately the grounds are
open and I photographed many examples of his art carved into the stone
fence behind the neat old stone building.
The
gallery is across the alley from the Ellis
County Historical Society museum complex. The museum was closed a few
years ago because of mold, but portions have reopened. The main galleries
in the large old brick church are still closed for remodeling which will
take several years, but there is a temporary gallery in the basement and
the smaller historic stone church. The Sternberg Firearm Collection is
housed for the summer in the basement of that church.
Next
I went to Dorrance, Kansas to the Dorrance Bankery, a restored 1905 stone
bank with a small museum and selling a few baked goods brought in from
a home baker. Three baked goods were offered today, raspberry bismarks,
long Johns and cream puffs. I bought one one of each to try later. The
cream puff was my favorite. The long John did not have filling and tasted
much like the bismark without the raspberry.
Tony
Mahoney, who created the museum, was on vacation and it was a being kept
open this morning by a local volunteer who kept apologizing for not knowing
even more about the building and exhibits. She did a fine job and the visit
ended up taking over an hour.
The
building had many other uses after the bank closed in 1933 and when Tony
acquired the building in 2007, the interior looked nothing like a bank.
Based on old photos, he has returned it to an earlier time. The back portion
of the building has interesting exhibits devoted to several entrepreneurs
and inventors who called Dorrance home.
There
is a second MGM Shed with old farm equipment and a tractor and wagon used
to give tours of Dorrance when Tony is present to drive.
Before
leaving Dorrance, I stopped for lunch at Tipsy Bull, a bar and grill a
couple of blocks away. A young woman was waiting tables and a young man
was the only one in the kitchen. To this aging man, neither looked old
enough to be selling alcohol. Both were working hard.
The
short menu was crudely marked up by hand with more items removed, changed
or added than were unchanged. There were 6 sandwiches, 3 baskets and 3
salads, plus sides and appetizers. With the name being the Tipsy Bull,
I wanted to try the bull fries basket, but they were out, so I went with
a patty melt and fries. The rye bread was a little stronger and a little
more toasted than I would have preferred. It was an average meal.
The
next stop was Fort Riley, just east of Junction City. After checking in
at the Visitors Center and getting permission to enter the active US fort,
I drove to the parking lot next to the U. S. Cavalry Museum. As I drove
on to the post, this was the first time that no aircraft were visible on
Marshall Army Airfield.
The
museums were closed for many years for remodeling and updating. The Cavalry
Museum reopened last year and I visited in in August, but the First Infantry
Division Museum reopened just a few weeks ago. I walked over to the building
I remembered it being, but there was no sign for the museum and nothing
to indicate that it was open. The only sign was a small one on the door
saying that an alarm would sound if the door was opened. I stood on the
porch, bringing up info on the museum online, confirming that this was
the correct building and yes the museum was supposed to be reopened.
The
door was unlocked and although interior lighting came on when I walked
in, I was the only person in the two story museum devoted to the Big Red
One. My favorite exhibits were devoted to World War 2, but the galleries
cover the history of the Division from its organization in 1917 into the
21st Century.
I
had an early supper at North Star Steakhouse on the north side of Topeka,
Kansas, where I had dined with others in March. Calling for a reservation
just a little after 4 PM, I had to settle for a seat at the bar. I was
the only one eating at the bar, but there was a steady stream of other
people either picking up take out orders or having a drink while waiting
for their tables. It felt like the staff knew and liked all of the other
customers, but I felt welcome as well. My food was brought by servers,
but the bartender supervised my meal.
I
had chicken fried steak, which came with a salad and fresh cut fries served
family style with gravy. Neither the steak or the gravy had as much seasoning
as I wanted and I added too much salt. Having the leftovers the next day,
I discovered that what I should have added was hot sauce.
For
dessert I ordered the Ooey Gooey Brownie, which seemed a little pricey
compared to the $21.99, Just after I first photographed the dessert, a
server brought a martini glass filled with additional ice cream, saying
that the bartender said I hadn't been brought enough ice cream on the plate.
That isn't nuts on top of the brownie, but toffee. I ate all the dessert.
|
Fort Hays State Historic Site
Kansas Merci Boxcar
Stone Gallery
Dorrance Bankery
Tipsy Bull Menu
First Infantry Division Museum
Chicken Fried Steak
Ooey Gooey Brownie |
Thursday
- June 13, 2024: Family activity took us to Topeka today and I took
advantage of it to visit a couple of restaurants for this web site.
Lunch
was at Sommerset Hall Cafe, a few miles west of Topeka in Dover, Kansas.
The famous restaurant changed hands in March of 2023 and I had only dined
here once under the new ownership. The menu is unchanged since last August
and I think it is unchanged from before the restaurant changed owners.
We
had a shrimp basket, fish basket and chicken fried steak sandwich.
The
senior fish basket had one piece of fish, small drink and French fries.
Nothing special about it. other than the price of $7. The shrimp were mostly
breading and the person who ordered it was very unhappy when it was served
to learn that no cocktail sauce was available. The chicken fried steak
sandwich wasn't bad, but I wished the fries had been more crispy.
As
expected, the pie was the star of the meal. The mixed berry pie was good
and the chocolate caramel was even better. The filling was like a brownie,
rather than cream and had a nice rich, dark chocolate flavor. Pie was $4.75.
Supper
was at Sheridan's Frozen Custard in Topeka. The chain started in Overland
Park, Kansas in 1998 and was an extremely popular place for frozen desserts
for many years, but that location and most of the others have closed. Now
there are only 4 locations, with 2 on the Missouri side of Kansas City
and 1 on the Illinois side of St. Louis.
This
is the only one which serves meals and it has a small dining room with
about 6 tables in addition to walk up and drive through windows. We ordered
a chicken sandwich, Super Dog, fries, limeade and small chocolate malt.
You order at a counter and the food is brought to your table. The grilled
chicken sandwich had good flavor, though the meat was a bit tough. The
fries were fresh cut and very good.
The
Super Dog is described as an all beef dog on a whole wheat bun, Texas all
meat chili, spicy Jamaican relish and spicy brown mustard. It was a large
dog on a larger bun with a lot of toppings, including the raw onion I requested.
It was very good and the excess toppings was great with the fries. An order
of fries with the same toppings would be great. One quibble, there were
a few beans in the all meat chili, though they didn't detract from the
meal.
I
don't think I have ever had a malt at a Sheridan's before. It was all right,
but I would go with a concrete if I went there again.
|
Chicken Fried Steak
Super Dog |
Thursday
- June 20, 2024: I had lunch at Wolfepack BBQ in Kansas City, Missouri.
Wolfepack opened in the Columbus Park neighborhood a few blocks east of
the City Market in August 2023. It is my third time dining here.
My
server wasn't quite as attentive as I might wish, but he respond well to
all requests and was willing to make suggestions on what to order when
requested.
I
ordered a $16 two meat sandwich with brisket and pulled pork. The meat
is pretty thick on the bun, but doesn't seem that big for its price point.
There is less meat than a single meal sandwich a mile away at Arthur
Bryant's. I think the pulled pork is better than most. Brisket is harder
to review, because different people tend to expect different things in
beef brisket. I would say that it is in the mix of places offering better
brisket in KC. Any sides are an extra charge and I had a $3.50 serving
of lightly battered French fries.
There
are no desserts listed on the menu, but when the server brought the check,
I asked if they had any house made desserts. He said that they have cheesecake
that is made in house. When I asked for a recommendation, he suggested
the sweet potato cheese cake, but the berry one is good too. The sweet
potato New York style cheesecake came out quickly. I though it was pretty
good and it is nicely priced at six dollars.
Wolfepack
BBQ's website is one of those annoying ones which don't list their menu,
but make you go to an ordering program which makes it very hard to look
at their selection and prices. They also don't provide a phone number on
their website or listing on Google.
|
2 meat sandwich & fries
Cheesecake |
Friday
- June 21, 2024: I added a new review of Wolfepack
BBQ in Kansas City, Missouri.
|
|
Sunday
- June 23, 2024: I learned that Sierra
Grill in Lenexa, Kansas is now open for lunch on Sundays. I really
like the food at Sierra Grill, but have not been happy with the noise level
at supper time since they moved to this new location a year and a half
ago, so Sunday dinner sounds like a great time to go there.
When
we were seated, we learned that on Sunday they are using a special Sunday
Brunch menu. The lunch items are rather limited, with all the entrees being
more breakfast type items. We were looking for lunch items and and decided
to share three appetizers and skip the entrees.
We
had Kalbi Short Ribs, Fancy Deviled Eggs, and Smoked Salmon $ Cream Cheese
Dip. The ribs were very nicely seasoned and and generously sized serving.
I was also very happy with the deviled eggs.
It
was an inexpensive meal, just $44 including tax and soft drinks.
|
Deviled eggs & Kalbu short ribs |
Friday
- June 28, 2024: We are off to Vancouver on a 17 day trip to British
Columbia, Yukon Territory and Alaska, including a one week cruise. Photos
from the Canadian portion of the trip: keith-stokes.pixels.com/collections/canada+photography |
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